If it’s installed right—and I mean proper prep, full flake broadcast, and quality topcoats—flake epoxy flooring can last 15 years or more in a residential garage here in Central Illinois. I’ve seen floors in Decatur and Springfield that are still holding strong after a decade, even with daily vehicle traffic. But the real key is the condition of the concrete underneath and how well the coating was installed. We diamond grind every slab before we install to make sure the epoxy bonds like it’s supposed to. No shortcuts. No DIY paint kits. If you’re driving over it every day, parking hot tires, and maybe spilling a little oil or salt in the winter, you want a floor system that won’t peel or wear down after a year or two. That’s why I give a 15-year warranty. I don’t mess around with coatings that flake up or discolor. Done right, this floor will outlast most of what’s sitting on it.

Great question, and the answer is—it depends on the finish. The flake itself adds texture, which already helps with grip. But in high-moisture areas like entryways, basements, or workshops that get wet from snowmelt or tracked-in water, I always recommend adding a slip-resistant additive in the topcoat. I use an aluminum oxide or silica blend that gives it some grit without making it hard to clean. You won’t even notice it visually, but it’ll keep you upright if you’re walking in with wet boots or socks. I’ve done garage floors in Springfield where the homeowner wanted to wash their car inside—no problem, I just bump up the anti-slip to match. The goal is to find the right balance between safety and cleanability. You don’t want it to feel like sandpaper, but you also don’t want to take a tumble. When I come out to do a quote, I always ask how you plan to use the space and tailor the grit level to match. Safety matters—and so does usability.

Absolutely—you’re not stuck with some one-size-fits-all option from a big box store. I’ve got dozens of flake blends to choose from, and if you’ve got something specific in mind—team colors, brand colors, or even something that hides dirt better—I can build a custom mix. A lot of folks around Decatur go for the granite-look flakes: gray, black, and white because they match almost any space and don’t show much grime. But I’ve also done bold red-and-black floors for car guys, tan blends for more natural light, and even blue tones for utility rooms. The flake layer isn’t just for show—it adds thickness, texture, and hides imperfections in older concrete. I do a full broadcast, which means you’ll get 100% coverage, not patchy flakes here and there. Then I seal it up with a high-gloss or satin topcoat, depending on the vibe you’re going for. When you book with me, I’ll bring samples so you can see and touch the options in person. It’s your floor—it should reflect your style.

When I install a flake epoxy floor, it’s not a quick paint-and-go job—it’s a multi-step system that starts with surface prep. First, I diamond grind the concrete using commercial grinders. That removes old coatings, opens the pores, and gives the epoxy something to bite into. If there are cracks, spalls, or pits, I patch and level them. You don’t want to lock in flaws—fix them first. Then I roll on the base coat of epoxy and broadcast the vinyl flakes across the entire surface. I don’t do the light-sprinkle approach; this is a full-blown flake storm so you get a strong, textured surface. After that cures, I scrape and vacuum the flakes flat, then top it with a UV-stable polyaspartic or urethane clear coat. That topcoat is what seals it, gives it shine, and makes it resistant to hot tires, salt, oil, and water. The whole process usually takes two to three days start to finish, depending on temperature, humidity, and how rough the slab is. I’ll keep you updated every step of the way.

Pricing depends on a few things—square footage, concrete condition, flake system used, and whether you want extras like extra grit or a satin finish. But to give you a ballpark, most residential garages in Decatur or Springfield run around $5–$7 per square foot for a full broadcast flake epoxy system with a clear topcoat. That includes prep, materials, labor—everything. If your concrete is in really bad shape or has a lot of leveling to do, that’ll bump the price up a bit. I don’t do cookie-cutter quotes—I come out, take a real look at your floor, and give you a firm price that includes everything. No hidden fees, no upsells. I also offer a 15-year warranty on all my flake systems, which most guys around here don’t. That means if something goes wrong because of how I installed it, I’ll make it right. If you’re price shopping, just make sure you’re comparing apples to apples—not a quick DIY job vs. a professional-grade install.

Yep—and honestly, it’s one of my favorite places to install it. A lot of basements in Central Illinois—especially in places like Springfield and Decatur—struggle with humidity, musty air, and concrete that’s seen better days. Flake epoxy is perfect for that. It locks out moisture from the top, gives you a clean, sealed surface, and makes the whole space feel more finished. Whether you’re turning it into a home gym, laundry room, or game room, it beats bare concrete by a mile. I use a moisture-tolerant primer first to make sure we’re not trapping any vapor coming up from below. Then we do a full broadcast flake system and seal it with a tough, UV-stable clear coat. It’s not just about looks—it’s about creating a healthier, more usable space. Bonus: it’s easy to clean, doesn’t stain easily, and resists mildew. If you’ve got pets or kids running around down there, this kind of flooring holds up way better than carpet or tile—and you won’t be stressing over spills.

Short answer? Not until the old coating is removed. I get this all the time—folks in Decatur or Springfield will say, “Hey, I’ve already got paint on my garage floor, can you just epoxy over it?” And the answer is no—not if you want it to last. Paint, sealers, or anything else sitting on that slab will weaken the bond of the new epoxy. You might get a few months out of it, but then it’ll start peeling, and that’s not how I do business. Before I install anything, I diamond grind the surface to remove paint, glue, old coatings—whatever’s there. That gives us a clean, porous concrete surface to bond to. If your slab has some rough spots or damage under the old coating, I’ll repair those before we move on. Once the floor’s prepped properly, that new flake epoxy system isn’t going anywhere. Prep is everything in this line of work—and I take it seriously.

Good news: flake epoxy is one of the lowest-maintenance floor options out there. For everyday cleanup, a soft broom or dust mop does the trick. Got some road salt or mud tracked in from Central Illinois winters? Just hose it down or use a mop with a mild cleaner. No fancy products needed—just skip the acidic stuff like vinegar or bleach, and don’t use abrasive pads that could dull the topcoat. If it’s in a garage or shop, I usually recommend a simple routine: sweep weekly, mop monthly, and rinse off any chemical spills right away. That clear topcoat is doing the heavy lifting—it protects your floor from stains, scratches, and fading. And because we do a full broadcast, you’re not going to see wear patches like you would on a painted floor. If you’re someone who likes your floor to always look fresh, I can also do a refresh topcoat after several years, but most customers don’t need it unless they’re really hard on the floor. Bottom line? These floors are built to work, not babysit.

Yes—but with some caveats. I can install flake epoxy year-round in Central Illinois, including colder months in Decatur or Springfield, but temperature and humidity need to be controlled. Epoxy doesn’t like to cure below 50°F, and if the slab is too cold or there's too much moisture in the air, it can mess with the bond and the finish. In heated garages or indoor spaces, I can usually keep things on schedule even in January. But if it’s an unheated outbuilding or you’ve got frost under the slab, we may need to wait until things warm up—or bring in heaters to bring the surface temp up to spec. I’ll always do a moisture check before starting, and if there’s any risk of condensation or curing issues, I’ll be upfront with you. No one wants a floor that looks good for a week and then starts peeling. I’d rather push the schedule than cut corners. Winter installs are 100% doable—I’ve just got to be a bit more strategic.

Oh, don’t get me started. Those DIY kits look great on the shelf—until you use them. The stuff you get at the hardware store is usually water-based or single-part epoxy, which means it doesn’t bond as well, isn’t UV-stable, and wears out fast. I’ve redone a lot of those floors after they started peeling in less than a year. The difference with my system is in every layer—starting with diamond grinding your slab, which no DIY kit includes. Then I use commercial-grade, two-part epoxy and full-broadcast flakes for a thick, slip-resistant surface. And I top it off with a polyaspartic or urethane clear coat that actually holds up to hot tires, salt, gas spills—you name it. DIY kits don’t include that topcoat, and that’s why they fail. It’s like comparing a microwave dinner to a steakhouse meal—you get what you pay for. If you’re going to do it, do it once and do it right. I guarantee my installs for 15 years because I know the system works.